Postscript: Lies, damned lies and statistics

So, after 67 daily entries, covering our travels from Dubai to London and points in between, One Per Day draws to a close. It has been great fun updating it, and picking the photo to illustrate each day’s events. The number up for selection varied from 119 (June 18) to just one (August 3 – we were on a plane), with an average of around 30 photos to choose from.

Thanks to everyone who made comments or provided feedback. It was cheering to learn that so many of you found it interesting and were following it daily. The nightly ritual of copying the photos from the memory cards onto the laptop became second nature, as did the scratching of heads to decide the content of the accompanying paragraph.

In most cases, we had in-house internet access to easily complete the postings. On other occasions, we used unsecured wireless networks, so thanks are due to those nameless Europeans who unwittingly helped us out.

We also enjoyed the free public wi-fi access in various cities. Most parks & gardens in Paris have free wi-fi, and at least one posting was made leaning on the fence of the Place des Vosges garden, after the caretaker had cleared us out of the square.

The return to work on Monday will be quite a rude awakening, after our all-too-brief foray into the life of the perpetual traveller. However, a scroll through these blog entries will quickly transport us back to our time on the road.

Thursday 5 August: Back to life, back to reality

After a little over nine weeks of travel, we finally arrived back in Melbourne, where it was a chilly 6C outside. For the final flights, our packs weighed 11kg and 14kg, reflecting both our light packing and having posted back some items during our travels. It’ll be nice to have a wider range of clothes to choose from, which the lower temperatures will certainly warrant.

Location: Melbourne, Australia

Wednesday 4 August: Food for Thought

With roughly 20 of today’s 24 hours spent on planes, an airline meal is probably the best representation of our day. Dubai is even hotter (38 C) than at the start of June, and we have about 90 minutes prior to our final flight to Melbourne. At least we’re nourished by the Emirates’ breakfast, with a similar effort likely to precede our arrival.

Location: Dubai, UAE

Tuesday 3 August: Eton Trifles

Across the River Thames from Windsor, Eton gets just a fraction of the visitors teeming around the castle. Clearly quieter over summer, when the frock coated schoolboys are away on their jolly hols, there are lots of calm corners like this one.

Location: Eton, England

Monday 2 August: Feet of Clay

Sir George Gilbert-Scott’s Midland Grand Hotel and Sir Colin Wilson’s more recent British Library building are poles apart architecturally. However, both share the same orange-brown London bricks, and their proximity on Euston Road forces the viewer to make the comparison. Both were controversial when built, but have settled down to be good neighbours in this otherwise undistinguished area.

Location: London, England

Sunday 1 August: East End Art

Over the years, Shoreditch has been home to Huguenot Weavers, Jewish clothing merchants and - more recently - Indian and Bangladeshi communities. The latter has yielded a dense concentration of restaurants, to join the bagel shops, but the area is also home to many artists and workshops. The array of signs on Buxton Street, just off Brick Lane, exemplifies this.

Location: London, England

Saturday 31 July: One Man’s Trash...

...is normally said to be “another man’s treasure”, but we weren’t quite sure how this headless torso in Covent Garden would reward its subsequent owner. Regardless, it pointed the way to the excellent London Transport Museum, which has recently undergone a full makeover and was well worth visiting.

Location: London, England

Friday 30 July: Chocolate Box Land

The Cotswolds region extends across several counties, with the unifying feature being perfectly preserved, pale brown stone buildings. This group, from the superbly named village of Lower Slaughter, is just about typical.

Location: Lower Slaughter, England

Thursday 29 July: Dreaming ... ceilings

The original Bodleian Library has an incredibly intricate ceiling, complete with in-jokes and masons’ marks. After the principle was established that the library would collect one copy of everything published in Britain since the 16th century - Exeter City fanzines included -the collection had to be relocated to larger premises.

Location: Oxford, England

Wednesday 28 July: Things of Stone and Wood

Woodhenge was a larger version of Stonehenge, built some 200 years after the original. Unlike the version made of Welsh bluestone, it hasn’t stood the test of time, but its location is recorded by means of small concrete posts. It’s not quite as impressive now, but would have been quite something when new.

Location: Amesbury, England

Tuesday 27 July: Feeling Blue

Rewind to May 3^rd 1942, and Bedford Circus was a highlight of Exeter City Centre. The following day, the infamous Baedeker Raid flattened much of the centre, including the St John’s Hospital School. This statue was rescued from the debris, and stood in the much maligned Princesshay until its recent redevelopment.

Location: Exeter, England

Monday 26 July: Making a Splash

Sitting at the end of the South Devon Railway near Buckfastleigh, the Dartmoor Otter Sanctuary rescues and looks after both domestic and international Otters. Whilst generally nocturnal in nature, they are extremely animated during the regular feeding times, polishing off fish and chickens in equal measure. This one, named Splash, was particularly active.

Location: Buckfastleigh, England

Sunday 25 July: Would you like scenery with that, sir?

The wild ponies are an endless source of interest on Dartmoor, grazing amongst the tors and the numerous visitors. It’s hard to tell if they’re aware of the awesome views forming the backdrop to their dining, but us humans certainly are!

Location: Haytor, England

Saturday 24 July: The calm (well) after the storm

Nearly sixty years ago, this tranquil scene was anything but, as a major rain cell swept across North Devon, swelling local rivers to the point where much of Lynmouth was under water. Dozens of buildings were swept away and 34 people died, including a couple of visitors from Melbourne, now buried at Box Hill cemetery.

Location: Lynmouth, England

Friday 23 July: Technology, old and new

Brunel’s Clifton Suspension Bridge has provided Bristolians with a convenient way of crossing the gorge since completion in 1864. The renowned engineer would doubtless be less impressed with the low grade tolling technology, which excludes 1p, 2p and 5p coins from cash payments. No wonder most locals use a swipe card instead.

Location: Bristol, England

Thursday 22 July: Gold Top

Along with a long dockyard tradition, Bristol has a lengthy artistic legacy, from the Royal West of England Academy to Banksy’s inspired street art. Former warehouses and storehouses have been repurposed to galleries, and creativity is flourishing. But it’s the gilded crown atop the Academy, looking down from the heights of Queen St, which seems to oversee matters.

Location: Bristol, England

Wednesday 21 July: Everybody gets a Patron Saint

If there was a theme linking every city on our itinerary it would be Patron Saints. St George has popped up on numerous occasions (we can confirm that the dragon is well and truly slain), as has Saint Antoine, being tempted in many countries. The latest addition would have to be the Patron Saint of Car Drivers, decorated largely with old road signs and signals.

Location: Prague, Czech Republic

Tuesday 20 July: The lonely lamppost

Prague has quite a mix of architectural styles, from gothic & rococo to art nouveau and what can only be described as Eastern Bloc concrete. However, one relatively unique style is cubist architecture, as exemplified by this lamppost, a few metres off busy Wenceslas Square.

Location: Prague, Czech Republic

Monday 19 July: From a distance

The Charles Bridge is rightly amongst Prague’s top attractions. Occupying a key axis between castle and town, it is a must-see for most visitors. The trouble is, much of the seeing is simultaneous, hence the rush hour seen here. For the sake of an early alarm, we virtually had the run of the place early in the morning, with only a few joggers for company.

Location: Prague, Czech Republic

Sunday 18 July: Sobering indeed

Terezin was an 18^th century fortified town, re-purposed by the Nazis to house Jews collected from across central Europe, before despatching them (some 88,000 in all) to the extermination camps, principally Auschwitz and Treblinka. The cemetery commemorates a fraction of the 33,000 people who died at Terezin itself, including numerous Christians swept up via the Nazis’ genetic definition of Jewishness.

Location: Terezin, Czech Republic

Saturday 17 July: All change for ... Sunday mass

With influences from Egyptian temples, Cubist design & classical Greek - not to mention railway stations the world over - the Church of the Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord cuts a striking figure in the Vinohrady area of Prague. The 1932 structure certainly dominates the square in which it sits, and the transparent clock can be seen from a long way off.

Friday 16 July: It must be something in the water

Czech Sculptor David Černý has numerous works scattered across Prague, including three giant babies outside the museum on Kampa Island. No stranger to controversy, the representation of Bulgaria via a series of urinals in his Entropa work for the Czech EU Presidency drew official complaints. However, his sculptures mostly intrigue and entertain, and spying one as you approach always brings a buzz.

Thursday 15 July: Doesn't look a day over 599

The Prague Astronomical Clock (or Prague Orloj) is fascinating and the first thing we saw in the Old Town. The oldest parts were made in 1410, with subsequent additions and doubtless modifications when the Gregorian Calendar came into effect in the 1500's. It tells the time - depicted by a procession of moving Apostles - and also lunar movements and other astronomical events that would have been crucial to life in Renaissance Praha.

Wednesday 14 July: Well, if it’s good enough for the French...

Just as French royalty indulged their every whim at Versailles, their 18^th century German equivalents did likewise at Potsdam. Das Neue Palais was the last of several palaces built in the Sans Souci Park, and was later the venue for Count von Bismarck’s 1914 declaration of war. Rather like the Kaiser’s ambitions, the Palace is crumbling in parts, requiring us to wear felt slippers for much of the tour!

Tuesday 13 July: Welcome to the Fosterdome!

Following German reunification, Sir Norman Foster oversaw the refurbishment of the Reichstag (parliament building). As at the British Museum, his key innovation was introducing light into the building via a glass dome. As well as providing a pleasing architectural flourish, it also enables the people of Germany to literally look down on their politicians. No bad thing.

Monday 12 July: “Mr Gorbachev, tear down this wall.”

With those words, heard often in Berlin, Ronald Reagan added impetus to a process that had been building for some time. Less than two years later, the wall did indeed come down, reuniting a city partitioned for 28 years. Today, the former line of the wall is marked by a double row of Berlin cobblestones – these ones are around the corner from Checkpoint Charlie.

Sunday 11 July: Testing times

At the former Sachsenhausen concentration camp, prisoners in the punishment squad had to march endlessly around the Shoe Testing Track, testing out soles for German army boots. In the 38°C temperatures today, one lap would have been exhausting, so how some of the prisoners did 20 miles on starvation rations defies belief.

Saturday 10 July: Cold War Relic

Buried several floors below an average city block is a nuclear bomb shelter, built in 1974 Designed to shield 3200 Berliners from a nuclear attack, it would have housed them in rudimentary fold-down beds for a two week period. Quite what the ‘survivors’ were supposed to do on emerging is unknown, but thankfully the need was never tested.

Friday 9 July: Spuds anyone?

Arriving late in Berlin after a two hour delay to our flight, we wandered around the neighbourhood (Prenzlauer Berg) to see what was there. As well as the usual bars and cafes, there were numerous ‘guerilla gardening’ examples, including two trolleys, one filled with carrots, the other potatoes. We’re not entirely sure of the purpose, but it’s certainly different.

Thursday 8 July: The Old Ham of Ghent

Ghent has an extensive old town, with the largest pedestrianised area in Belgium. This allows the visitor to wander around, discovering interesting sights such as the Great Butchers’ Hall. Once the main meat market, it’s now a showcase for East Flanders’ food & tourism, its former life signalled by the hanging hams.

Wednesday 7 July: In Bruges

Well, we had to choose the cheesy tourist photo at some stage on this trip, and this is apparently the most photographed spot in Bruges. Judging by the number of people on the bridge, cameras poised, it sounds like a fair claim. Whilst Colin Farrell's character in the film may not have enjoyed the city, he spent a fair bit of time in the wooden fronted hotel that forms part of this scene.

Tuesday 6 July: Sole survivor

During the Middle Ages, a wall was constructed around Brussels, including fortified gates such as the Porte de Hal (or Hallepoort, in Flemish).  Much of the wall was demolished in the mid 19^th century, with the Porte de Hal lingering on as a prison. Following extensive restoration, it is now a museum and exhibition space.

Monday 5 July: Beertopia

Belgium has a certain reputation for brewing, and it would be rude of us not to put in some effort to verify this claim. Our visit to the Brewing Museum in the Grand’ Place contributed to our assessment, not least the free tasting at the end of the visit. More testing seems to be required, but results thus far are encouraging.

Sunday 4 July: A splash of yellow

On a quiet corner, a few streets away from the Grand’ Place, stands the Mannekin Pis, doing as he always has. With the Tour de France arriving at the Atomium in the afternoon, he was sporting a flattering outfit to suit the day’s big race. Not sure how his technique would help with the cycling...

Saturday 3 July: A lucky escape

Our departure from Paris Gare du Nord to Brussels was fine, the Thalys train speeding us to the Belgian capital in a mere 82 minutes. Spare a thought, therefore, for the unlucky travellers aiming to depart Gare d’Austerlitz at the same time, stranded after a lightning strike took out the station on the second busiest travel day of the year.

Friday 2 July: In the shadow of the towers

Notre Dame Cathedral casts a long shadow over the Île de la Cité, sucking in visitors from early morning onwards. Originally built in the mid-12^th century, but substantially rebuilt or modified on numerous occasions, it has a secondary function as a shaded seating area for those awaiting their next photo opportunity pit-stop.

Thursday 1 July: “This is the Hall of Mirrors. It has lots of mirrors.”

Strike one for clarity from one of our fellow visitors to the Palace of Versailles. It was indeed quite reflective in perhaps the most overblown room in a monument to the excesses of various French royals across the 17^th & 18^th centuries. It’s hardly surprising that the masses eventually revolted.

Wednesday 30 June: Life imitates art (imitating life)

Amongst the vast array of artworks at the Louvre, a few brave souls were scattered, each creating their take on one of the paintings on display. Whilst their efforts were excellent (to our untutored eyes), their courage in carrying out their art in such a public location (and with such competition!) was admirable.

Tuesday 29 June: Is there a game on?

Anyone would think that some kind of global football tournament was taking place, judging from the crowds at the Trocadero “FIFA FanFest” tonight. Thousands were inside to watch Spain v Portugal, with just as many (us included) outside. There was a great atmosphere, punctuated with blasts from vuvuzelas, giving it the authentic South African feel.

Monday 28 June: Walking in the air

Back in 1987, some bright spark had the excellent idea of transforming a disused railway viaduct into an elevated linear park. Running for 4.5km from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes, it’s an amazingly tranquil place to stroll, read the paper, catch up on work etc. Even better, the viaduct arches have been converted into artists’ workshops and galleries.

Sunday 27 June: The House of Cheese

Although Biarritz is probably best known as a beach and surf resort, it also has all the normal aspects of other French towns, including an excellent market. Thankfully open every day, it provided several aspects of our picnic lunch, but we couldn’t take advantage of the splendid array of cheese on sale at this stand.

Saturday 26 June: Beach Blanket Biarritz

After spending the last week in the relative cool of Bilbao, we have finally arrived in the surf and spa country of France.  Not as busy as the Riviera, but just as sunny and very lively. This was taken at around 6pm- the sun does not set here until 10 pm, but I doubt that this will stop the beach party.

Friday 25 June: Space Invader!

We’ve been looking out for these mosaics since being shown one in Little Bourke Street, Melbourne.  The French street artist ‘Invader’ prepares them in advance and then attaches them en masse when “invading” a city. After seeing examples in Lyon, Montpellier & Barcelona, this was one of several we spotted here in Bilbao. See www.space-invaders.com for more details.

Thursday 24 June: More murals

The Basque Country capital, Vitoria (or Gasteiz in Basque), is around an hour from Bilbao. Although famous for its old town and museums, it is also gaining a reputation for its superb murals. These typically cover an entire end wall of a building or, in this example, all the exterior walls of a school. Arriving for class on a Monday morning was never this appealing.

Wednesday 23 June: An elegant solution

In the late 19^th century, a bridge was required to link the banks of the Nervión River, whilst allowing ships to pass through the port area. The solution was a transporter bridge, with vehicles & passengers carried on a platform suspended on cables below. Even more impressive, nearly 120 years later, 80% of the parts are still the originals.

Tuesday 22 June: “And they called it Puppy Love”

Arriving in Bilbao from the airport, the second thing that you see (after the Guggenheim Museum) is Jeff Koons’ floral piece Puppy (1992). Whilst not the most ferocious security guard ever, it is not only huge but extremely photogenic. There is an internal watering system for the real flowers that cover the piece, which children can help re-plant as part of a Guggenheim activity.

Monday 21 June: A terrible location

After a day largely spent travelling, we arrived in Bilbao and tracked down our accommodation for the next five days. To our great delight, it is located right in the middle of the old town, with a balcony view to the cathedral, although the hourly ’alarm clock’ may not be so great. From our brief wander around, Bilbao looks to be a lovely town, with great lanes and bars. Pintxos (Basque tapas) here we come!

Sunday 20 June: Sunday lunch at Les Planes

So, what do the hard-working people of Barcelona do on a Sunday lunchtime? Some of them, at least, descend on the Font de Les Planes in the northern hills, fire up the BBQ, and prepare industrial quantities of food for their extended families. The line up of grills, fuelled by chopped wood or charcoal, was almost as impressive as the piles of meat awaiting their fate. Vegetarians beware!

Saturday 19 June: The Magic Fountains of Montjuic

Late every weekend evening, the fountains at the foot of Montjuic explode into life. Virtually unnoticed during the day, at night their centre stage place is assured, as they dance to patterns of light and music, enthralling the crowds that gather. The full show goes on for about fifteen minutes every half hour, and is genuinely impressive, drawing applause at the end of each section.

Friday 18 June: It’ll be nice when it’s finished...

If we had a Euro for every time this had been said about Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, it would have paid for most of this trip. His most famous (and, yes, unfinished) work is but one of a large number of buildings around the city, all exhibiting the characteristic use of light, curves and ergonomic form that Gaudi made his own. A true genius, cruelly struck down aged 74, by a tram.

Thursday 17 June: On Reflection

At the end of La Rambla, the Columbus Monument no longer marks the end of the city, but a punctuation, as the axis continues along Ramba del Mar to the seafront area. Here, a shopping centre, cinema complex, and bars and restaurants compete for attention opposite the berthed cruise ships. With great views back to the city and Montjuic, it’s a pleasant place for a late afternoon stroll.